Rip currents due to wave-current interaction

Book Section

In this linear instability study, we examine the incipience of depth averaged circulations, which are related to rip currents in the surf zone, due to interactions of waves and currents on alongshore uniform beaches. We consider normally incident waves, subject to infinitesimal perturbations which are alongshore periodic. Circulations are described by the depth-time averaged shallow water equations which include wave forcing and bottom friction. The slow modulation of the wave field is described by the ray theory. We assume linear shallow water waves and a saturated surf zone. The properties of the instability are then examined using two parameters, representing the effects of the incident wave height and bottom friction dissipation.

Full Text

Duke Authors

Cited Authors

  • Yu, J; Murray, AB

Published Date

  • January 1, 2005

Book Title

  • Advances in Engineering Mechanics Reflections and Outlooks: In Honor of Theodore Y-T Wu

Start / End Page

  • 117 - 127

International Standard Book Number 10 (ISBN-10)

  • 9812561447

International Standard Book Number 13 (ISBN-13)

  • 9789812561442

Digital Object Identifier (DOI)

  • 10.1142/9789812702128_0009

Citation Source

  • Scopus