Scholarly Works - Book sections
Book section
·
January 1, 2022
Researchers use models to understand and forecast morphodynamic evolution in a variety of coastal contexts: surf zone dynamics including the short-term evolution of the nearshore seabed and shoreline; the longer-term evolution of coastline planview shapes, ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
January 1, 2022
With the possible exception of some basic theories such as quantum mechanics and relativity, scientific models are by nature incorrect—at best they correspond to a natural system in limited ways. This is especially true of models used in Earth-surface-proc ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
January 1, 2022
Coastal landforms can sometimes result in unique and visually mesmerizing spatially-organized patterns. Different spatial patterns develop over scales ranging from centimeters to tens of kilometers, and are observed at the shoreline (e.g., ripples, beach c ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
January 1, 2022
River-dominated deltas on Earth are composed of diverse shapes and patterns, ranging from small-scale bifurcations that create channel networks to large-scale deltaic lobes that build deltaic plains. Morphodynamic feedbacks among fluid flow, sediment trans ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
February 15, 2018
Because barriers are low-lying and dynamic landforms, they are especially sensitive to changing environmental conditions. The continued existence of barriers will depend on the degree to which these landforms can maintain elevation above sea level while al ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
February 15, 2018
Considerations of mass conservation, sediment budgets, and geometry lead to insights regarding how barriers respond to sea-level rise. We begin with relatively simple insights, which facilitate more surprising conclusions as more complicated cases are cons ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
June 10, 2015
On developed coastlines, humans react to physical processes in coastal environments by stabilizing shorelines against chronic erosion and by taking measures to prevent destruction of coastal infrastructure during storms. While we are beginning to understan ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
March 19, 2013
While many previous studies have explored the effects of vegetation on single-thread rivers, systematic studies on multi-thread rivers are scarce. Our approach is to synthesize data and ideas from a field-based study of the Waitaki River in New Zealand wit ...
Full text
Cite
Book section
·
September 25, 2007
This volume is comprised of the proceedings of "20 Years of Nonlinear Dynamics in Geosciences", held June 11-16, 2006 in Rhodes, Greece as part of the Aegean Conferences. ...
Cite
Book section
·
January 1, 2005
In this linear instability study, we examine the incipience of depth averaged circulations, which are related to rip currents in the surf zone, due to interactions of waves and currents on alongshore uniform beaches. We consider normally incident waves, su ...
Full text
Cite
