Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Biogeosciences · January 1, 2026
Salt marshes are ecologically and socio-economically valuable intertidal ecosystems that have suffered rapid losses worldwide. As a blue carbon ecosystem (BCE), they are efficient sinks and long-term reservoirs of organic carbon (OC), with vital roles in t ...
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Journal articleNature Geoscience · April 1, 2025
Periodic sediment patterns have been observed on Earth in riverbeds and sand and snow deserts, but also in other planetary environments. One of the most ubiquitous patterns, familiar wind or ‘impact’ ripples, adorns sand beaches and arid regions on Earth. ...
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Journal articleEarth S Future · April 1, 2024
Developed barrier systems (barrier islands and spits) are lowering and narrowing with sea-level rise (SLR) such that habitation will eventually become infeasible or prohibitively expensive for most communities in its current form. Before reaching this stat ...
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Journal articleCambridge prisms. Coastal futures · January 2023
Although coasts are frequently seen as at the frontline of near-future environmental risk, there is more to the understanding of the future of coastal environments than a simple interaction between increasing hazards (particularly related to global sea lev ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · May 16, 2022
On wave-influenced river deltas, wave-driven sediment redistribution affects river progradation, and therefore avulsions, while avulsions change where sediment is delivered to the coastline, affecting coastline shape. Coastline shape, in turn, affects sedi ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · February 1, 2022
The dynamics and morphological evolution of deltas and their channel networks involve interactions between many factors, including water and sediment discharge and cohesion from fine sediment and vegetation. These interactions are likely to affect how stro ...
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Journal articleFrontiers in Marine Science · November 22, 2021
Barrier-island systems, spanning ∼7% of the world’s coastlines, are of great importance to society because not only they provide attractive, liveable space for coastal communities but also act as the first line of defense from coastal storms. As many of th ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · July 16, 2021
Barrier islands and spits tend to migrate landward in response to sea-level rise through the storm-driven process of overwash, but overwash flux depends on the height of the frontal dunes. Here, we explore this fundamental linkage between dune dynamics and ...
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Journal articleScientific reports · July 2021
Sandy coastlines adjacent to tidal inlets are highly dynamic and widespread landforms, where large changes are expected due to climatic and anthropogenic influences. To adequately assess these important changes, both oceanic (e.g., sea-level rise) and terr ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · May 1, 2021
Self-organized pattern formation is widespread and functionally significant. Scale-dependent feedback in space (short-distance positive feedback coupled with long-distance negative feedback) has been embraced as an arguably universal mechanism of ecologica ...
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Journal articleEarth and Planetary Science Letters · April 1, 2021
River deltas grow through repeated stacking of sedimentary lobes, the location and size of which are determined by channel avulsions (relatively sudden changes in river course). We use a model coupling fluvial and coastal processes to explore avulsion dyna ...
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Journal articleFrontiers in Marine Science · December 16, 2020
Inlet-interrupted sandy coasts are dynamic and complex coastal systems with continuously evolving geomorphological behaviors under the influences of both climate change and human activities. These coastal systems are of great importance to society (e.g., p ...
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Journal articleFrontiers in Marine Science · July 10, 2020
Approximately one-quarter of the World’s sandy beaches, most of which are interrupted by tidal inlets, are eroding. Understanding the long-term (50–100 year) evolution of inlet-interrupted coasts in a changing climate is, therefore of great importance for ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · May 1, 2020
The formation and evolution of tidal platforms are controlled by the feedbacks between hydrodynamics, geomorphology, vegetation, and sediment transport. Previous work mainly addresses dynamics at the scale of individual marsh platforms. Here, we develop a ...
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Journal articleScientific reports · February 2020
Beaches around the world continuously adjust to daily and seasonal changes in wave and tide conditions, which are themselves changing over longer time-scales. Different approaches to predict multi-year shoreline evolution have been implemented; however, ro ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Biogeosciences · February 1, 2020
Seagrass provides a wide range of economically and ecologically valuable ecosystem services, with shoreline erosion control often listed as a key service, but can also alter the sediment dynamics and waves within back-barrier bays. Here we incorporate seag ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · December 1, 2019
Low-lying, wave-dominated, sandy coastlines can exhibit high rates of shoreline change that may impact coastal infrastructure, habitation, recreation, and economy. Efforts to understand and quantify controls on shoreline change typically examine factors su ...
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Journal articleChemical Geology · November 20, 2019
Chemical weathering of bedrock plays an essential role in the formation and evolution of Earth's critical zone. Over geologic time, the negative feedback between temperature and chemical weathering rates contributes to the regulation of Earth climate. The ...
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Journal articleChemical Geology · November 20, 2019
We constructed mass balances of both calcium and phosphorus for two watersheds in Big Cypress National Preserve in southwest Florida (USA) to evaluate the time scales over which its striking landscape pattern developed. This low-relief carbonate landscape ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · April 1, 2019
Many landforms on Earth are profoundly influenced by biota. In particular, biota play a significant role in creating karst biogeomorphology, through biogenic CO 2 accelerating calcite weathering. In this study, we explore the ecohydrologic feedb ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · October 16, 2018
Cohesive sediment exerts a significant influence on delta evolution, increasing shoreline rugosity and decreasing channel mobility. Vegetation has been assumed to play a similar role in delta evolution, but its cohesive effects have not been explicitly stu ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · February 1, 2018
Shifts in the frequency of typical meteorological patterns in an ocean basin, over interannual to decadal time scales, cause shifts in the patterns of wave generation. Therefore, ocean basin-scale climate shifts produce shifts in the wave climates affectin ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · January 1, 2018
Previous results show that overwash provides an important sediment source to back-barrier marshes, sustaining a narrow marsh state under conditions in which marsh drowning would otherwise occur. We expand the coupled barrier island-marsh evolution model GE ...
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Journal articleMarine Geology · January 1, 2017
Coastlines where waves consistently approach at highly oblique angles experience anti-diffusional behavior, causing perturbations to grow seaward and form sand waves, capes, and spits. Coasts where waves approach at low offshore angles experience the oppos ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Dynamics · December 2, 2016
A range of planform morphologies emerge along sandy coastlines as a function of offshore wave climate. It has been implicitly assumed that the morphological response time is rapid compared to the timescales of wave climate change, meaning that coastal morp ...
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Journal articleComputers and Geosciences · May 1, 2016
In Earth-surface science, numerical models are used for a range of purposes, from making quantitatively accurate predictions for practical or scientific purposes ('simulation' models) to testing hypotheses about the essential causes of poorly understood ph ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · March 1, 2016
Coastal and shoreline management increasingly needs to consider morphological change occurring at decadal to centennial timescales, especially that related to climate change and sea-level rise. This requires the development of morphological models operatin ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · March 1, 2016
Coastal and estuarine landforms provide a physical template that not only accommodates diverse ecosystem functions and human activities, but also mediates flood and erosion risks that are expected to increase with climate change. In this paper, we explore ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · December 1, 2015
We use a new exploratory model that simulates the evolution of sandy coastlines over decadal to centennial timescales to examine the behavior of crenulate-shaped bays forced by differing directional wave climates. The model represents the coastline as a ve ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · July 4, 2015
To understand the relative importance of back barrier environment, substrate slope and underlying stratigraphy in determining barrier island response to RSLR (relative sea-level rise), we use a morphological-behavior model (GEOMBEST) to conduct a series of ...
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Journal articleEarth S Future · July 1, 2015
In the future, Earth will be warmer, precipitation events will be more extreme, global mean sea level will rise, and many arid and semiarid regions will be drier. Human modifications of landscapes will also occur at an accelerated rate as developed areas i ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · April 1, 2015
Since cuspate coastlines are especially sensitive to changes in wave climate, they serve as potential indicators of initial responses to changing wave conditions. Previous work demonstrates that Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout, North Carolina, which are lar ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · March 30, 2015
Sea stacks are common and striking coastal landforms, but few details are known about how, how quickly, and under what conditions they form. We present numerical and analytical models of sea stack formation due to preferential erosion along a pre-existing ...
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Journal articlePloS one · January 2015
Human population density in the coastal zone and potential impacts of climate change underscore a growing conflict between coastal development and an encroaching shoreline. Rising sea-levels and increased storminess threaten to accelerate coastal erosion, ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · October 28, 2014
In this study, we use a simple numerical model (the Coastline Evolution Model) to explore alongshore transport-driven shoreline dynamics within generalized embayed beaches (neglecting cross-shore effects). Using principal component analysis (PCA), we ident ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Dynamics · June 3, 2014
The impact of future sea-level rise on coastal erosion as a result of a changing climate has been studied in detail over the past decade. The potential impact of a changing wave climate on erosion rates, however, is not typically considered. We explore the ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · June 1, 2014
Applying complex systems perspectives to geomorphic systems leads to the conclusion that cause and effect in landscape systems does not always apply in the ways that common sense and traditional assumptions would suggest. Geomorphologists have long thought ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Dynamics · April 23, 2014
Coastal defences have long been employed to halt or slow coastal erosion, and their impact on local sediment flux and ecology has been studied in detail through field research and numerical simulation. The non-local impact of a modified sediment flux regim ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Dynamics · January 28, 2014
Numerical models rely on the parameterization of processes that often lack a deterministic description. In this contribution we demonstrate the applicability of using machine learning, a class of optimization tools from the discipline of computer science, ...
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Journal articleEos · January 7, 2014
As the global community faces the effects of ongoing and future climate and land-use changes (C&LUC), geoscientists are called to action to assess the risks associated with such changes, assist with forecasts of future Earth states, quantify hazards to lif ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · January 1, 2014
Many studies focus on the emergence and development of rhythmic landscape patterns. In this contribution we explore the different behaviors found as patterns evolve; the trajectories that patterns exhibit as they transit from infinitesimal-amplitude pertur ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · January 1, 2014
We explore the behavior of a theoretical model of cross-shore headland relief caused by alongshore differences in lithology and rock strength on rocky coastlines. Results address the question of why some rocky coasts exhibit frequent headland and embayment ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · January 1, 2014
We have developed an exploratory model of plan view, millennial-scale headland and bay evolution on rocky coastlines. Cross-shore coastline relief, or amplitude, arises from alongshore differences in sea cliff lithology, where durable, erosion-resistant ro ...
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Journal articleContinental Shelf Research · December 1, 2013
We integrate published data sets of field and laboratory experiments of wave ripples and use genetic programming, a machine learning paradigm, in an attempt to develop a universal equilibrium predictor for ripple wavelength, height, and steepness. We train ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · November 28, 2013
A comparison between historical and recent shoreline-change rates on the U.S. east coast (based on observed shoreline positions from the last century and a half) shows that emergent, large-scale, cuspate coastline features are changing shape, becoming more ...
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Journal articleGeology · October 1, 2013
In nature, barchan dunes typically exist as members of larger fields that display striking, enigmatic structures that cannot be readily explained by examining the dynamics at the scale of single dunes, or by appealing to patterns in external forcing. To ex ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · June 1, 2013
Shoreline erosion is a natural trend along most sandy coastlines. Humans often respond to shoreline erosion with beach nourishment to maintain coastal property values. Locally extending the shoreline through nourishment alters alongshore sediment transport ...
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Journal article · April 3, 2013
The effects of storm events on cross-shore beach profiles have been the subject of concerted examination by nearshore researchers for decades. Because these investigations typically span relatively short (less than a kilometer) shoreline reaches, alongshor ...
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Journal articlePhilos Trans A Math Phys Eng Sci · 2013
Recent research addresses the formation of patterns on sandy coastlines on alongshore scales that are large compared with the cross-shore extent of active sediment transport. A simple morphodynamic instability arises from the feedback between wave-driven a ...
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Journal article · January 1, 2013
With the possible exception of some basic theories such as quantum mechanics and relativity, scientific models are by nature incorrect - at best they correspond to a natural system in limited ways. This is especially true of models used in Earth-surface-pr ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · October 16, 2012
The future of large-scale coastline evolution will be strongly coupled to human manipulations designed to prevent erosion. We explore the consequences of this coupling using a numerical model for large-scale coastline evolution to compare the long-term, no ...
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Journal articleJournal of Structural Geology · September 1, 2012
We documented polygonal fracture networks in the Tuolumne Intrusive Suite, Sierra Nevada Batholith by collecting data on the size, orientation, and length of fractures and fracture-bound polygons in nearly isotropic granitic rocks. Polygonal fracture netwo ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · December 28, 2011
We investigate the long-term evolution of inner continental shelf sorted bedform patterns. Numerical modeling suggests that a range of behaviors are possible, from pattern persistence to spatial-temporal intermittency. Sorted bedform persistence results fr ...
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Journal articleNonlinear Processes in Geophysics · December 1, 2011
Developed coastal areas often exhibit a strong systemic coupling between shoreline dynamics and economic dynamics. "Beach nourishment", a common erosion-control practice, involves mechanically depositing sediment from outside the local littoral system onto ...
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Journal articleGeology · November 16, 2011
We investigate rocky coastline evolution over millennial time scales using exploratory analytical and numerical models based on interactions between beaches and sea cliffs. In the models, wave-driven sea-cliff retreat is a nonlinear function of beach width ...
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Journal articleJournal of Coastal Research · September 1, 2011
Interactions between human manipulations and landscape processes can form a dynamically coupled system because landscape-forming processes affect humans, and humans increasingly manipulate landscape-forming processes. Despite the dynamic nature of sandy ba ...
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Journal articleTectonophysics · June 3, 2011
Two quantitative measures - correlation dimension and maximum Lyapunov exponent - are investigated for quantifying fracture spacing in massive, non-layered rock. The correlation dimension, a measure of fractal dimension, characterizes some aspects of fract ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · June 1, 2011
Using shoreline change measurements of two oceanside reaches of the North Carolina Outer Banks, USA, we explore an existing premise that shoreline change on a sandy coast is a self-affine signal, wherein patterns of change are scale invariant. Wavelet anal ...
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Journal articleGeology · May 1, 2011
Fluctuations in sea-level rise rates are thought to dominate the formation and evolution of coastal wetlands. Here we demonstrate a contrasting scenario in which land-use-related changes in sediment delivery rates drive the formation of expansive marshland ...
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Journal articleMarine Geology · March 15, 2011
Combining analyses of plan-view shoreline change and shoreline curvature with existing nearshore geologic and bathymetric data and the results of a recent theoretical, large-scale shoreline-evolution model that couples geologic framework to alongshore sedi ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · September 1, 2010
When modeling the large-scale (> km) evolution of coastline morphology, the influence of natural forces is not the only consideration; ongoing direct human manipulations can substantially drive geomorphic change. In this paper, we couple a human component ...
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Journal articleGeology · September 8, 2009
Naturally occurring elongate bodies that are segmented or appear to be in the process of segmentation occur in a variety of environments and scales. A simple, process-based numerical model of planform shoreline evolution demonstrates that fetch controls on ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · March 1, 2009
The Bruun rule, widely used to predict transgression due to sea level rise on decade to century timescales based on a fixed nearshore profile, neglects the influence of inland topography and substrate lithology, leading to physically unreasonable predictio ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · February 1, 2009
The following is a white paper (adapted here for print) for the U.S. National Research Council's committee on Challenges and Opportunities in Earth Surface Processes, drafted at a National Science Foundation sponsored workshop associated with the 38th Bing ...
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Journal articleNature · February 2009
Depending on the wind regime, sand dunes exhibit linear, crescent-shaped or star-like forms resulting from the interaction between dune morphology and sand transport. Small-scale dunes form by destabilization of the sand bed with a wavelength (a few tens o ...
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Journal articleJournal of Environmental Economics and Management · 2009
Beach nourishment is a common coastal management strategy used to combat erosion along sandy coastlines. It involves building out a beach with sand dredged from another location. This paper develops a positive model of beach nourishment and generates testa ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · December 28, 2008
Historical acceleration in the rate of global sea level rise and recent observations of marsh degradation highlight the importance of understanding how marshes respond to sea level change. Here, we use an existing numerical model to demonstrate that marsh ...
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Journal articleRiver Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics Rcem 2007 Proceedings of the 5th IAHR Symposium on River Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics · December 1, 2008
Populations of plants and animals affect sediment transport and morphological evolution in many environments. The term 'ecogeomorphology' (or 'biogeomorphology') describes studies that address such effects. In this selective review we use the term 'biomorp ...
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Journal articleWater Resources Research · November 1, 2008
Plants and animals affect morphological evolution in many environments. The term "ecogeomorphology" describes studies that address such effects. In this opinion article we use the term "biomorphodynamics" to characterize a subset of ecogeomorphologic studi ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · March 16, 2008
Coastal ecosystems respond to sea level and sediment supply change according to complex, three-way interactions between vegetation, hydrology, and sediment transport. While biogeomorphic feedbacks preserve the morphology of intertidal surfaces covered by m ...
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Journal articleGlobal and Planetary Change · February 1, 2008
In response to climatic warming, eustatic sea level has been predicted to rise by about 50 cm in the next century. While feedbacks between vegetation growth and sediment deposition tend to allow marshes to maintain their morphology under a constant rate of ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · January 28, 2008
Bedforms with plan-view patterns consisting of long crests interrupted by defects occur ubiquitously in subaqueous and subaerial environments where they strongly influence flows and sediment transport. We explore how such patterns adjust to changes in the ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · November 1, 2007
The nearshore region exhibits many striking morphological patterns with a variety of spatial and temporal scales. The formation of these rhythmic features has been initially ascribed, depending on the pattern in question, to spatial structures in the flow ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · October 16, 2007
Gradients in wave-driven alongshore sediment transport influence the morphologies of sediment-covered coastlines on a range of spatial and temporal scales, affecting accretion and erosion patterns relevant to human development. Recent theoretical findings ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · October 15, 2007
Numerical models can be useful for explaining poorly understood phenomena or for reliable quantitative predictions. When modeling a multi-scale system, a 'top-down' approach-basing models on emergent variables and interactions, rather than explicitly on th ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · September 24, 2007
We employ a numerical model to study the development of sorted bed forms under a variety of hydrodynamic and sedimentary conditions. Results indicate that increased variability in wave height decreases the growth rate of the features and can potentially gi ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · September 24, 2007
Here we present a modified version of the exploratory numerical model originally presented by Murray and Thieler (2004) and use it to further investigate the development of sorted bed forms on the inner continental shelf. The new version of the model is ba ...
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Journal articleCoastal Sediments 07 Proceedings of 6th International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes · September 17, 2007
We investigate spit formation and evolution in light of the high-wave-angle instability in shoreline shape arising from a maximizing angle for wave-driven alongshore sediment transport. Single spits emerge in a simple one-contour line numerical model that ...
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Journal articleCoastal Sediments 07 Proceedings of 6th International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes · September 17, 2007
Researchers and coastal managers are addressing how climate change will affect shorelines. Important questions include: How far will a sandy shoreline retreat as sea level rise accelerates? And, how far landward will the effects of possibly intensified sto ...
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Journal articleCoastal Sediments 07 Proceedings of 6th International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes · September 17, 2007
A peculiar feature of tidal channel networks is that their geometry (e.g. channel length, width, density) scales better with watershed area than tidal prism. Platform elevation has little control on network morphology, suggesting that relative platform dee ...
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Journal articleCoastal Sediments 07 Proceedings of 6th International Symposium on Coastal Engineering and Science of Coastal Sediment Processes · September 17, 2007
We present a simple numerical model capable of producing distinctive scalloped bays of a form found when a sandy coastline extends downdrift of a rocky headland. The shape of such bays can often be approximated by a log-spiral - a curve for which the radiu ...
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Journal articleGeomorphology · August 1, 2007
Dozens of references recognizing pediment landforms in widely varying lithologic, climatic, and tectonic settings suggest a ubiquity in pediment forming processes on mountain piedmonts worldwide. Previous modeling work illustrates the development of a uniq ...
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Journal articleProceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America · April 2007
The evolution of tidal marsh platforms and interwoven channel networks cannot be addressed without treating the two-way interactions that link biological and physical processes. We have developed a 3D model of tidal marsh accretion and channel network deve ...
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Journal articleProceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference · January 1, 2007
The development of sorted bedforms on the inner shelf has been simulated using a modified version of the model originally developed by Murray and Thieler (1994). The model is here used to analyze the effect of hydrodynamics on the emergent characteristics ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · December 24, 2006
Contrary to traditional findings, the deepwater angle of wave approach strongly affects plan view coastal evolution, giving rise to an antidiffusional "high wave angle" instability for sufficiently oblique deepwater waves (with angles between wave crests a ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · December 24, 2006
Recent research has revealed that the plan view evolution of a coast due to gradients in alongshore sediment transport is highly dependant upon the angles at which waves approach the shore, giving rise to an instability in shoreline shape that can generate ...
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Journal articleRiver Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics Rcem 2005 Proceedings of the 4th IAHR Symposium on River Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics · December 1, 2006
A previous investigation of large-scale grain-size sorted patterns on inner continental shelves used an exploratory numerical model that represented with simple parameterizations what was hypothesized to be a key relationship between grain size and bottom ...
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Journal articleCoastal Dynamics 2005 Proceedings of the Fifth Coastal Dynamics International Conference · December 1, 2006
By adding a simple fixed-point sediment source to a numerical one-contour-line coastal evolution model, we investigate how the distribution of wave approach angles affects the evolution of wave-dominated deltas. These experiments are motivated by recent fi ...
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Journal articleCoastal Dynamics 2005 Proceedings of the Fifth Coastal Dynamics International Conference · December 1, 2006
We have developed a numerical model that couples geologic framework effects and alongshore sediment transport processes to investigate large-scale, long-term shoreline evolution in sediment-limited environments. Shoreline segments underlain by material com ...
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Journal articleRiver Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics Rcem 2005 Proceedings of the 4th IAHR Symposium on River Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics · December 1, 2006
We have developed a numerical model of tidal marsh accretion and channel network development that couples physical sediment processes with vegetation productivity. We have previously demonstrated that under a constant rate of sea level rise, the marsh plat ...
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Journal articleGeology · October 1, 2006
Sediment erosion laws form the basis for most landscape evolution models and guide geomorphologists in the pursuit of understanding how landscapes evolve. This focus on the alluvial surface, however, ignores the role of intrinsic feedbacks between sediment ...
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Journal articleGeophysical Research Letters · September 28, 2006
Researchers and coastal managers are pondering how accelerated sea-level rise and possibly intensified storms will affect shorelines. These issues are most often investigated in a cross-shore profile framework, fostering the implicit assumption that coastl ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · September 24, 2006
We present model results suggesting that a physical erosion-bedrock weathering feeback is responsible for the development of isolated bedrock knobs (tors/inselbergs) that often punctuate otherwise smooth pediments of homogeneous basement lithology. Tors an ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · June 24, 2006
Conceptual geologic framework models predict that areas of the coast underlain by a weak or very fine grained lithology retreat landward faster than adjacent, more resistant or coarser-grained segments. These apparently commonsense predictions seem inconsi ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Earth Surface · June 1, 2005
Fluviodeltaic systems commonly display a compound-clinoform geometry that consists of a subaerial/subaqueous delta couplet. The extent of subaqueous delta development varies significantly and, in modern systems, is a function of fluvial input and basin hyd ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Oceans · April 15, 2004
On approximately planar beaches, rip channel development is often preceded by a period in which jet-like rip currents develop in apparently random locations, and dissipate after Minutes to tens of minutes. The subsequent development of sharp-edged, trough- ...
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Journal articleContinental Shelf Research · January 1, 2004
Recent observations of inner continental shelves in many regions show numerous collections of relatively coarse sediment, which extend kilometers in the cross-shore direction and are on the order of 100m wide. These "rippled scour depressions" have been in ...
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Journal articleJournal of Coastal Research · March 1, 2003
Rip currents - strong, isolated, offshore-directed flows - can occur in the absence of bathymetric features such as rip channels. No consensus exists regarding the cause of these impressive but life-threatening features, sometimes called "flash" rip curren ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · February 1, 2003
We modify a simple numerical stream-pattern model to examine the effect of sediment stabilization by roots on the channel pattern of bedload rivers. In the model, vegetation enhances bank resistance to erosion, causing the development of a single channel i ...
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Journal articleNature · November 2001
Along shore sediment transport that is driven by waves is generally assumed to smooth a coastline. This assumption is valid for small angles between the wave crest lines and the shore, as has been demonstrated in shoreline models. But when the angle betwee ...
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Journal articleJournal of Geophysical Research Solid Earth · July 10, 2001
Sorted circles emerge as self-organized patterns from a laterally uniform active layer that becomes laterally sorted as frost heave deforms the interface between a stone layer and an underlying soil layer. In a three-dimensional, cellular model of the acti ...
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Journal articleMathematical Geology · January 1, 2001
A new nonlinear data-analysis technique compares the typical sequences in different time or spatial series. The method quantitatively compares delay-coordinate embedded state-space plots by treating them plots as probability distributions. Thus its applica ...
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Journal articleJournal of Coastal Research · January 1, 2001
What causes strong, focused rip currents to develop on planar beaches? Observations of waves in the presence of rip currents suggest an interaction between waves and currents that causes wave dissipation. A hypothesized mechanism that would cause such an i ...
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Journal articleWater Resources Research · September 1, 1998
We present a comprehensive approach for validating braided-stream models and apply it to a specific cellular braided-stream model. The approach involves quantitative comparison of modeled and natural braided streams in terms of two main aspects: the sequen ...
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Journal articleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms · January 1, 1997
We have shown in a previous paper that many of the main features of braided streams can be captured in a relatively simple cellular computer model. Here we examine some of the detailed characteristics of this model. We show the qualitative form of the brai ...
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Journal articlePhysica D Nonlinear Phenomena · January 1, 1997
To evaluate models of dynamical systems, researchers have traditionally used quantitative measures of short term prediction errors. However, for chaotic or stochastic systems, comparison of long term, qualitative behaviors may be more relevant. Let x = (x< ...
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Journal articleWater Resources Research · August 1, 1996
Recent simple cellular models of self-organized geomorphic patterns embody a new understanding of complex, spatially extended systems. Such models can be difficult to test quantitatively because the statistics traditionally used can be insensitive even to ...
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Journal articleWater Resources Research · July 1, 1996
Analysis of 41 ERS 1 synthetic aperture radar images and simultaneous ground measurements of discharge for three large braided rivers indicates that the area of active flow on braided river floodplains is primarily a function of discharge. A power law corr ...
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Journal articleNature · January 1, 1994
A broad sheet of water flowing over non-cohesive sediment typically breaks up into a network of interconnected channels called a braided stream (Fig. 1). The dynamics of such networks are complex; channels migrate laterally, split, rejoin and develop bars, ...
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