Taste, market, and social sustainability: multi-scalar foodscapes in Southwest China

Drawing upon ethnographic research conducted in the Nu Valley of Northwest Yunnan, this study investigates: 1) how foodways transcend ethnic boundaries in this diverse borderland society; 2) how taste preferences and market dynamics influence food consumption and cultivation; and 3) how changes in foodways impact social sustainability. While ethnic culinary heritages are often constructed to promote tourism, the inhabitants of the Nu Valley practice a form of food localism that fosters social unity and collective ownership. However, generational differences in taste and food preferences pose challenges to social sustainability. The demand for “natural” and healthy foods in both Chinese and international markets has driven extensive agricultural initiatives, significantly transforming the local landscape. State-supported projects, such as the construction of plastic greenhouses and the appropriation of scarce arable land from mountainous areas, facilitate the production of medicinal herbs, fruits, truffles, and meats that cater to urban consumers in domestic and international megacities. Although local opposition has been minimal, largely due to the prospects of economic growth, this research highlights a growing disconnect between what people consume and what they produce on their own land. A close examination of these multi-scalar foodscapes provides a comprehensive understanding of the relationship between foodways and social sustainability beyond the urban context.

Duke Scholars

Author Keping Wu DKU Faculty