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Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef

Publication ,  Journal Article
Monismith, SG; Herdman, LMM; Ahmerkamp, S; Hench, JL
Published in: Journal of Physical Oceanography
August 14, 2013

Observations of waves, setup, and wave-driven mean flows were made on a steep coral forereef and its associated lagoonal system on the north shore of Moorea, French Polynesia. Despite the steep and complex geometry of the forereef, and wave amplitudes that are nearly equal to the mean water depth, linear wave theory showed very good agreement with data. Measurements across the reef illustrate the importance of including both wave transport (owing to Stokes drift), as well as the Eulerian mean transport when computing the fluxes over the reef. Finally, the observed setup closely follows the theoretical relationship derived from classic radiation stress theory, although the two parameters that appear in the model-one reflecting wave breaking, the other the effective depth over the reef crest-must be chosen to match theory to data. © 2013 American Meteorological Society.

Duke Scholars

Published In

Journal of Physical Oceanography

DOI

EISSN

1520-0485

ISSN

0022-3670

Publication Date

August 14, 2013

Volume

43

Issue

7

Start / End Page

1356 / 1379

Related Subject Headings

  • Oceanography
  • 4015 Maritime engineering
  • 3708 Oceanography
  • 0911 Maritime Engineering
  • 0405 Oceanography
 

Citation

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MLA
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Monismith, S. G., Herdman, L. M. M., Ahmerkamp, S., & Hench, J. L. (2013). Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 43(7), 1356–1379. https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-12-0164.1
Monismith, S. G., L. M. M. Herdman, S. Ahmerkamp, and J. L. Hench. “Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef.” Journal of Physical Oceanography 43, no. 7 (August 14, 2013): 1356–79. https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-12-0164.1.
Monismith SG, Herdman LMM, Ahmerkamp S, Hench JL. Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef. Journal of Physical Oceanography. 2013 Aug 14;43(7):1356–79.
Monismith, S. G., et al. “Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef.” Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol. 43, no. 7, Aug. 2013, pp. 1356–79. Scopus, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-12-0164.1.
Monismith SG, Herdman LMM, Ahmerkamp S, Hench JL. Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef. Journal of Physical Oceanography. 2013 Aug 14;43(7):1356–1379.

Published In

Journal of Physical Oceanography

DOI

EISSN

1520-0485

ISSN

0022-3670

Publication Date

August 14, 2013

Volume

43

Issue

7

Start / End Page

1356 / 1379

Related Subject Headings

  • Oceanography
  • 4015 Maritime engineering
  • 3708 Oceanography
  • 0911 Maritime Engineering
  • 0405 Oceanography